The taste of Kashmir

The first major influences on Kashmiri cuisine were the Buddhists and Pandits (the Hindu population within the valley). When the Turco-Mongol conqueror Timur (or Tamerlane) conquered Kashmir in the fourteenth century, he brought over the flavors of his own Central Asian culture. Persia and Afghanistan have also contributed to the taste of the valley.Many dishes are accompanied by a great deal of tradition. For example, Wazwan is a multi-course meal in which almost all of the dishes are based around meat. Wazwan is one of the dishes to descend from Timur’s time. During his invasion, he brought over 1,700 of his favorite artisans, including cooks. Kashmir’s master chefs, the Wazas, descended from these early cooks. The number of courses in a Wazwan can differ, but seven dishes are considered essential:

• Tabakh maaz: lamb ribs simmered in yogurt and then fried
• Rista: meatballs in red gravy
• Rogan josh: lamb cooked with Kashmiri spices
• Daniwal korma: mutton curry with coriander
• Aab gosht: lamb curry
• Marchwangan korma: very spicy lamb dish
• Gushtaba: meatball in white yogurt gravy, always served last

In a royal Wazwan, the number of dishes reaches up to thirty-six. Other wazwan occasions include marriages and special events. Kashmiri Muslims consider the Wazwan an integral part of their culture and identity.The Pandit contributions to Kashmiri cuisine include a heavy reliance on yogurt and spices, especially turmeric, while onion, garlic, chicken, and tomatoes are avoided. Pandit cuisine differs from Muslim cuisine in that Pandit dishes rarely include minced meat. Some of the most popular vegetarian dishes are Ladyar tsaman (Indian cheese in turmeric), Veth tsaman (Indian cheese cooked in oil and spices), Dama oluv (a potato dish), and Nadeir yakhean (made from the stem of the lotus blossom).Kashmir boasts two popular beverages, found at many meals and special events. Sheer chai or nun chai is a beverage popular at any time, and is made from black tea, baking soda, milk and salt. The drink is a common breakfast beverage. Kahwah, on the other hand, is a type of green tea made with saffron, common at weddings, festivals, and religious events.